Hotels With Soul / Asia & the Pacific
30 remarkable hotels.
Asia & the Pacific.
Behind the beautiful rooms: families, makers and people with a particular idea of welcome.
By Rob Urban
Thirty stories · Four reading paths
From Bali to Bhutan, Hong Kong to the Waikato.
The view is only the beginning.
A hotel can give you a beautiful place to sleep. It can also introduce you to a farmer, give a rescued window another century of use, or make a family trip easier because somebody remembered the laundry.
Those decisions are what interest me here. Across these thirty places, the scale changes dramatically, from a home in Nepal to a tower above Hong Kong. The stories become most compelling when the people come into focus.
Follow a reading path, choose a familiar name, or settle into the whole journey. There is a great deal of thoughtful work behind these doors.
Reading path 1
A different relationship with the outdoors
An open room, a bamboo roof, a rice field. Places that make the landscape part of daily life.
01 / Bali, Indonesia
Buahan, a Banyan Tree Escape
The view becomes a conversation
An open room changes the terms of a holiday. At Buahan, the absence of conventional walls and doors makes the forest part of the room’s daily life. The architecture asks for a different kind of attention: less inspection of what the hotel has supplied, more awareness of what is happening around it.
That invitation becomes more interesting when someone can explain the landscape. Banyan Tree’s account of neighboring Singaperang village describes foraging visits led by farmer Agung or chef Eka. Guests learn about planting and ingredients, then sit down at the farmhouse to food prepared by Agung’s wife. The encounter gives the beautiful green surroundings names, uses and people.
There is an important distinction between looking at a place and beginning to understand how somebody lives there. A forest can become an attractive backdrop almost instantly. Understanding what grows beside a path, who tends it and how it arrives at a table takes another person’s knowledge. Buahan has made room for that exchange within the experience of staying.
These two decisions work well together. Opening a building to the landscape creates curiosity; inviting a farmer and a chef into the story gives that curiosity somewhere to go. Comfort still matters, but it serves a holiday in which the visitor has something to learn. The memorable luxury may be the moment a mass of greenery becomes a garden you can begin to read.
02 / Weligama, Sri Lanka
Cape Weligama
A family’s idea of hospitality travels beyond the hotel
Cape Weligama has a setting that could easily do all the talking. On Sri Lanka’s southern coast, the resort occupies a headland above the Indian Ocean. The long views and sheltered places to sit give its architecture an obvious purpose: making time beside the water feel generous.
The more revealing story belongs to the Fernando family behind Resplendent Ceylon and Dilmah tea. The late Merrill J. Fernando placed kindness close to the center of the family’s public philosophy. Large words become credible through small, practical acts. In the company’s account of its 2025 Kindness Day, Cape Weligama’s team helped landscape the Ariyadasa Elders Home and build an accessible washroom. Accessibility is a particularly useful expression of care. Someone’s ordinary day becomes easier.
There is also a continuing relationship between hospitality and teaching. A culinary workshop for the Empower school brought Cape Weligama chef Ishara Wijesinghe together with Resplendent’s Nishantha Pushpakumar to share techniques with students. The lesson included preparing a restaurant dish in detail, taking knowledge developed for paying guests and making it available to people beginning their careers.
Those activities give the resort’s beauty a human context. A hotel assembles considerable skill: cooking, gardening, maintenance, the patient art of noticing what someone needs. When some of that skill travels beyond the property, the place becomes useful in another way. Cape Weligama is admirable for the invitation to enjoy a remarkable stretch of coast, and for the evidence that hospitality can keep working after a guest has gone home.
03 / Riau Islands, Indonesia
Cempedak Private Island
Bamboo requires belief, and considerable competence
Before Cempedak could welcome anyone, a shipment of bamboo went missing. The island’s own building story recalls roughly 50,000 pieces traveling by sea, an unexpected disappearance, and a month before the shipment was found. It is a wonderfully unpolished beginning for a place whose finished buildings look so assured.
Bamboo gives Cempedak its unmistakable silhouette: long curves, generous overhangs and rooms that open toward their surroundings. Building with it also requires knowledge of moisture, insects, joints and weather. The apparent lightness is the result of people solving difficult problems. Several members of today’s team first knew the island as a construction site, helping build the place they now help run.
That continuity makes the architecture more personal. The story of a room need not end when a designer hands over the keys. Someone who remembers how a building came together carries knowledge that a drawing cannot quite contain. Maintenance, welcome and pride in the work become connected.
Cempedak’s wider relationship with its region includes the Island Foundation, whose work in the Riau Islands encompasses learning centers and teacher training. The island itself welcomes guests aged 15 and above, a useful distinction from the assumption that every secluded retreat has the same family policy.
What stays with me is the willingness to make a demanding material the starting point. The curves are lovely, but the persistence behind them is equally attractive. Cempedak gives the visitor a beautiful room while leaving enough of its construction visible to appreciate the people who made it possible.
04 / Baa Atoll, Maldives
The Nautilus Maldives
A circle has a different way of welcoming you
The Nautilus begins with a shape. Its houses curve around their occupants, their roofs rising in rounded forms that take their cue from the shell behind the hotel’s name. On a small Maldivian island, the architecture makes an immediate argument for softness.
The resort’s account of its design credits the late Maldivian entrepreneur Dr. Ibrahim Umar Maniku and architect David Edward. Their collaboration brought curved walls, organic forms and timber interiors into a coherent language. The houses make the island’s sense of enclosure feel intimate rather than rigid.
A curved room changes where your eye comes to rest. It is harder to divide into a front, a back and a set of corners. Furniture and movement can gather around the person instead of a strict axis. That is a small architectural fact with a large emotional consequence: a room can feel accommodating before anybody has explained its amenities.
This is why The Nautilus interests me beyond its location in Baa Atoll. An island is already a powerful promise. Giving its houses such a distinct personality means the promise survives the walk indoors. The design carries the same idea through several scales, from the roofline down to the way a guest settles into a room.
There is warmth in that consistency. A traveler can admire a spectacular structure from a distance; living comfortably inside it asks something more of the architect. Here, the repeated curve suggests a founder and designer thinking about the body as carefully as the photograph. The result offers a persuasive answer to a simple question: what would a house look like if relaxation helped draw it?
05 / Siargao, Philippines
Nay Palad Hideaway
The hands that brought a place back
Nay Palad’s most important design story is a rebuilding story. Typhoon Odette devastated the Siargao hideaway in 2021. The response required more than replacing furniture and reopening rooms. It meant bringing a particular spirit of play back into physical form.
Founder Bobby Dekeyser, the former footballer who created DEDON, had first come to Siargao in the 1990s. The hideaway opened in 2012. In its account of the reconstruction, Nay Palad describes designer Daniel Pouzet working with hundreds of Filipino craftspeople. The rebuilt spaces make that collaboration visible: woven forms rise and bend; lounges invite climbing, swinging and gathering; a jeepney acquires a roof that looks more like a great basket than an automotive accessory.
The delight is inseparable from the skill. A huge woven structure has to stand up, shed weather and survive use. Making it appear spontaneous is a serious achievement. Pouzet’s imagination needed the material intelligence of the people shaping it, and the finished place gives both something substantial to do.
Nay Palad’s community account also describes assistance after Odette, including rebuilding fishing boats and homes. The hotel’s recovery belonged within a much larger recovery on the island. Remembering that context makes the reopened hideaway more meaningful.
There is a generous understanding of adulthood here. Beautiful things can still be playful. A lounge can invite a little curiosity about how to sit in it. Craft can be technically accomplished and funny at the same time. Nay Palad matters because those pleasures survived a profound interruption, carried forward by people willing to make them again.
06 / South-central coast, Vietnam
Zannier Bãi San Hô
Several kinds of room for several kinds of landscape
A resort spread across rice fields, hills and a beach has a choice to make. It can impose one signature building everywhere, or let the differences in the land influence the architecture. Bãi San Hô takes the more interesting route.
Its villa collection uses three architectural approaches across the property. Paddy-field villas stand on stilts, while hill and beach accommodation establish their own relationships with slope and shore. The variety makes moving through the resort part of the discovery. A change in setting brings a change in how a building meets the ground.
Arnaud Zannier’s research preceded the result. In an account of the project, his travels through Vietnam included studying local customs and construction techniques. Wood, bamboo, stone, thatch and woven materials became part of the design vocabulary. That preparatory work matters because references become more useful when someone has taken time to understand where they came from.
No resort can contain the whole identity of a country. Bãi San Hô’s appeal is more precise: it gives a visitor several ways to notice the relationship between shelter and landscape. Height above a field, shade beside the water and the protection of a roof each make sense in a particular setting.
The restraint lies in allowing those differences to remain legible. A strong design identity does not always require identical rooms. Sometimes it emerges from a consistent willingness to pay attention. Here, the family resemblance between the villas leaves room for each location to make a contribution.
07 / Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve
A rice field belongs at the center
At Mandapa, the rice field is part of the composition of the hotel. Guest buildings gather around a landscape of cultivation beside the Ayung River. The arrangement gives an everyday activity, growing food, a place within an exceptionally comfortable retreat.
Interior designer Jeffrey Wilkes helped shape the resort’s Balinese vocabulary, a contribution described by Indonesia’s tourism authority. The wider experience includes learning to prepare offerings for the reserve’s temple and exploring the surrounding countryside. Mandapa’s own guide connects the stay with gardens, rice terraces and the work of people who know the region.
The field is a particularly thoughtful center of gravity. A swimming pool invites a guest to relax. A cultivated field can also invite questions: what is growing, who tends it, what the season requires. Keeping those two kinds of attention close together gives a holiday more texture.
There is care involved in presenting living cultural practices to visitors. An offering has meaning beyond its appearance, and a rice terrace has a purpose beyond its view. The strongest invitation is one that encourages guests to listen to the people explaining those things. Mandapa creates room for that kind of encounter while keeping the practical comforts of a stay close at hand.
Giving cultivation such visual importance is a confident choice. A hotel with ample resources could place almost anything at its center. Choosing a rice field acknowledges that a place’s ordinary work can be one of its most beautiful features. It also gives guests something to remember that belongs specifically to the valley around them.
08 / Baa Atoll, Maldives
Soneva Fushi
The pleasure of making something
Soneva Fushi makes room for an unusually appealing combination: sophisticated care and a willingness to be a little childlike. The island’s current experience includes treetop dining, an observatory and places devoted to making things. Curiosity has a substantial place in the holiday.
The Glass Studio and Makers’ Place are especially revealing. Materials that might be discarded become the starting point for creative work. The process gives guests another way to think about the objects around them, beyond whether they are attractive or expensive. Someone can change what a material is capable of becoming.
That is an effective idea to encounter on an island, where bringing things in and dealing with what remains are unavoidable practical realities. A workshop makes those realities visible at a scale a person can understand. Watching a maker work can produce a more durable interest than a long list of environmental promises.
The observatory offers a related change in perspective. A holiday already interrupts familiar routines; looking into the night sky extends that interruption into a much larger frame. The island has enough comfort to support a very restful stay, but also enough invitations to reward a guest who feels like learning something.
The room left for delight is part of the appeal. Environmental responsibility is serious work, and the quality of that work should be judged on evidence. The guest experience can also make repair, reuse and discovery feel pleasurable. Soneva Fushi’s creative spaces suggest that an object’s second life may be interesting in its own right, and that a good holiday can leave somebody a little more curious than when they arrived.
Reading path 2
The city, made personal
A chef who knows the markets. A room for a thousand listeners. A thoughtful welcome for a small child.
09 / Sentosa, Singapore
Capella Singapore
A designer leaves room for another designer
Renovating a well-loved hotel asks a delicate question: how much of the next designer’s personality should the guest notice? At Capella Singapore, André Fu approached the question with unusual generosity toward his predecessor, the late Jaya Ibrahim.
The resort had already brought several periods together. Two 1880s Tanah Merah bungalows were incorporated into the contemporary hotel by Foster + Partners. Fu’s 2021 room refurbishment added another layer. He retained the underlying layouts and treated Ibrahim’s original work as a creative conversation worth continuing. Softer furniture, green and earth tones, rattan and timber gave the rooms a new expression while respecting their established character.
One practical detail is especially good: furniture could serve more than one use. A generous sofa might support reading, working or resting. A table could accommodate a meal or a laptop. That flexibility recognizes how people actually occupy a room over several days. A guest should not have to behave exactly as the designer imagined at one particular hour.
There is confidence in this kind of authorship. Fu could acknowledge another designer’s achievement and still make a consequential contribution. The hotel benefits from the accumulation of intelligence rather than a sequence of dramatic resets.
Capella’s setting on Sentosa gives the idea a fitting physical form. Old buildings and newer architecture share the grounds; the rooms carry a further conversation across generations. The result makes continuity feel active. Somebody has looked carefully at what was already good, understood why it worked, and taken responsibility for making it useful to the next guest.
10 / Hong Kong
Island Shangri-La
A little wonder, and somewhere to wash the clothes
A family hotel can delight a child and exhaust a parent at the same time. Island Shangri-La’s dedicated family floor pays attention to both sides of that experience.
The imaginative part is expansive. A train-station arrival leads into a floor of themed rooms and suites, with worlds that draw on adventure and on Hong Kong itself. A child can find a tram or another carefully realized scene inside the place where the family is staying. The hotel has treated play as a design brief worthy of considerable effort.
Then there is the Pantry. Equipment and supplies for small children sit alongside laundry facilities. The Hangout gives families a communal place for play and activities. These are less spectacular ideas to photograph, but they may be the details a parent appreciates most after several days away from home.
The combination is what makes the project thoughtful. Children deserve imaginative spaces; adults deserve practical relief. It is possible to provide both within a grand city hotel, and doing so expands who gets to feel at ease there. A trip can retain its sense of occasion while accommodating the ordinary realities of bottles, naps and another change of clothes.
Those realities receive thoughtful attention here. Hospitality often becomes most meaningful at the point where somebody has anticipated a need that would otherwise be awkward to explain. Here, that anticipation has become part of the architecture. The story a child remembers may involve an adventure inside the room. The parent’s fond memory may be that the whole day was easier to manage. Both count.
11 / Mumbai, India
The Oberoi, Mumbai
Let the chef introduce the city
The Oberoi’s Marine Drive address gives it a sweeping relationship with Mumbai. Its Spice Trail offers a much closer one: exploring the city’s spice markets in the company of a chef.
The experience connects places including Lal Bagh, Crawford Market and Mirchi Galli with the knowledge of someone who works with ingredients every day. A market can be overwhelming when you cannot read its signs or recognize what is being sold. A good guide gives you a way in. A chef adds another layer, explaining how a purchase becomes part of a meal.
That changes the meaning of returning to the hotel for dinner. Ingredients have acquired a setting outside the restaurant. A flavor may recall a stall, a conversation or something you learned to identify earlier in the day. The relationship between the hotel and the city becomes practical and edible.
There is a generous professional instinct behind the idea. Chefs spend years acquiring knowledge that usually remains behind a kitchen door. Inviting a guest along makes some of that expertise available in a different form. It gives the person preparing the food a role in the traveler’s understanding of Mumbai.
The grand urban hotel has always been a meeting point between arrivals and local life. The Oberoi’s interpretation interests me because it makes that role personal. A beautiful room can restore somebody after a long journey. A knowledgeable introduction can help them leave the room with confidence. Bringing those two forms of care together makes a hotel useful far beyond its own walls, and gives the city a better chance of becoming more than a view.
12 / Makati, Philippines
The Peninsula Manila
A lobby big enough to hold a city’s memories
In 1983, the first Concert at the Pen brought the Manila Symphony Orchestra into The Peninsula Manila. Sergio Esmilla Jr. conducted, and pianist Amelia Guevara performed Gershwin’s Rhapsody in Blue. The hotel’s anniversary history recalls an audience of a thousand. It is a fine way to understand a lobby: a room that could become a concert hall because people already knew how to gather there.
Opened in 1976, the hotel reached its fiftieth anniversary in 2026. Its timeline exhibition brought photographs and memories back into the public spaces. Above the Lobby, National Artist Napoleon Abueva’s Sunburst gives the room a work of art with unmistakable presence. The building contains several ways for a visitor to encounter Filipino creativity without making a separate appointment to do so.
The scale matters, but so does the permission it offers. A great hotel lobby accommodates different purposes at once. Someone is meeting a friend, someone has arrived from another country, someone is taking a pause in a demanding day. The room becomes familiar through those ordinary uses, and that familiarity allows it to host extraordinary occasions too.
A hotel’s longevity can be measured in years or in the number of people who feel it belongs somewhere in their own story. The Peninsula’s concert and anniversary archive make the second measure especially tangible. Music, art and memory have accumulated around the work of welcoming guests.
This particular grandeur has a generous purpose. It gives people a place to assemble. The Lobby’s beauty has been used, revisited and remembered, which is a richer achievement than remaining perfectly untouched.
13 / Kyoto, Japan
The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto
A room from 1908 keeps setting the table
Ebisugawa-tei could have become a historical detail mentioned in passing. At The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto, it remains somewhere to have dinner.
The hotel’s dining account describes the restored wooden rooms from the 1908 townhouse of industrialist Denzaburo Fujita. Incorporated into La Locanda, they now accommodate private meals with Italian cuisine. The juxtaposition is pleasingly comfortable: a Japanese domestic interior from another century continues to host the contemporary business of sitting down together.
Elsewhere, an eleven-meter Wajima-lacquer counter gives the sushi experience a substantial piece of craft. Chef Katsuhito Inoue’s intimate chef’s-table format invites guests to remove their shoes and feel at home. These are distinct experiences, but each understands that the setting of a meal influences the conversation around it.
Preserving a room through use asks more of a hotel than displaying it behind a barrier. Furniture, service and movement have to respect the old space while allowing it to remain comfortable. Done thoughtfully, the guest meets history through an ordinary pleasure. You remember how the room held the evening, as well as its date.
The riverfront hotel is large enough to offer several expressions of hospitality. The details that stay with me are the ones that reduce the scale: a wooden room, a counter made for close attention, a chef welcoming a small group. Kyoto’s craft traditions become part of the guest’s actual experience of eating and being looked after. The care is substantial, but its effect can be as simple as wanting to linger at the table.
14 / Tokyo, Japan
Aman Tokyo
Above the city, a thought about rice
Kerry Hill’s Aman Tokyo gives the city a remarkable interior high above Otemachi. Washi and architectural references to shoji help create a luminous, lantern-like central space. The effect is expansive enough to change the pace of an arrival.
The detail I return to is much smaller. In Aman’s account of the hotel, chef Musashi explains a relationship with rice that extends to growing Hitomebore in Yamanashi. Since 2020, cultivation has become part of his work. His interest also reaches into the vessels used for serving food and drink.
That connection gives the tower a second scale. A guest can look out across an immense city, then sit down to a meal shaped by somebody’s attention to a field. The two experiences belong together because both depend on careful choices about what deserves notice.
Architecture often does its work immediately. You enter, look up and understand that something has changed. The chef’s work unfolds more gradually, through texture, sequence and the explanation of an ingredient. Aman Tokyo leaves room for both kinds of encounter.
The hotel’s calm has substance because it is supported by people making exacting decisions. Hill’s building creates room to breathe within a dense urban setting; Musashi’s cultivation gives an essential ingredient a personal history. A stay can move between those scales without losing coherence. The impressive view is still there, but the grain of rice gives the experience somewhere more intimate to settle. It is an appealing reminder that even the grandest city hotel can remain closely connected to the ground.
15 / Bangkok, Thailand
Capella Bangkok
The neighborhood has something to teach you
A riverfront hotel can become a very comfortable place from which to watch Bangkok pass by. Capella Bangkok also offers an invitation to step into the neighborhoods beside it.
Its Food Stall Crawl takes guests through Charoen Krung and Talat Noi with members of the hotel’s Culturist team. The route includes foods such as kanom krok and curry puffs, along with places to stop for coffee. Hong Sieng Kong brings an old riverside building into the experience. The hotel supplies a knowledgeable companion and lets the neighborhood supply much of the interest.
There is hospitality in that handoff. Traveling somewhere unfamiliar involves small uncertainties: where to pause, how to order, whether a doorway leads somewhere you are welcome. A person who knows the area can remove enough of that uncertainty for curiosity to take over.
The river gives Capella a strong sense of place before a guest leaves the property. The walk adds human scale. Bangkok becomes a succession of people preparing food, adapting old buildings and going about their day. Those encounters can make the return to the hotel more satisfying because the surroundings have become a little more legible.
Recommending someone else’s table requires professional confidence. A hotel invests heavily in its own restaurants, but a generous host also knows when to introduce a visitor to a neighbor. That instinct makes the property a useful participant in the city. The guest receives comfort and a thoughtful way into the life happening around it, with room left for the small discoveries that belong to travel.
16 / Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Rosewood Hong Kong
A family history finds its way onto the menu
Rosewood Hong Kong rises on a site with a long commercial memory. The hotel’s opening history traces the address from Holt’s Wharf to the New World Centre and into the Cheng family’s next chapter. Sonia Cheng’s hotel honors the work of her grandfather Cheng Yu-tung and her father Henry Cheng while giving the waterfront a new building.
The family connection becomes particularly interesting at The Legacy House. Its original conception drew on the food of Shunde, the region associated with Cheng Yu-tung’s roots. The restaurant today, led by Chinese Executive Chef Li Chi-wai, continues a close attention to Cantonese cooking and Guangdong specialties. A family’s history becomes something prepared, served and shared.
That is a warmer form of commemoration than a plaque alone. Food allows memory to remain active. A recipe requires somebody to understand a technique, source an ingredient and make decisions at the stove. Each meal renews the connection through work.
The scale of the hotel could easily overwhelm such a story. Kohn Pedersen Fox’s tower and Tony Chi’s interiors make a substantial architectural statement. The dining room gives that statement a more intimate center. Guests can encounter the place through the care invested in a particular dish, without needing to absorb its entire corporate or family history.
The movement from skyline to table gives the hotel a welcoming human scale. Rosewood Hong Kong has room for architectural ambition and the affection carried in a family recipe. The relationship between them helps a very large hotel feel connected to the people who imagined it.
Reading path 3
The work of carrying something forward
Family homes, gardens, rescued wood and the makers whose knowledge gives a hotel its character.
17 / Phaplu, Nepal
The Happy House
Coming home becomes an invitation
The name has a famous association. Edmund Hillary knew the house while working on schools and healthcare in the region, and called it Happy House. The deeper story belongs to the Sherpa family whose home it was, and to the decision to bring it back into use.
The family history follows Ang Tawa Lama’s house through years of visitors, Nepal’s civil conflict and the family’s move abroad. Ang Tshering Lama returned in 2017 after studying and working in the United States. Reopening the house gave a personal homecoming a public form. A traveler could now be welcomed into a place carrying his family’s memories.
The work around the house is as interesting as the rooms. Its community projects include the Phaplu Mountain Bike Club and culinary training. Chef Mingmar’s knowledge, developed through expedition cooking and hospitality, becomes useful to local lodge and homestay owners. Women participate in the training, extending the reach of skills that visitors may first encounter at one table.
That makes the idea of welcome unusually expansive. The house receives travelers, but the people running it also make connections between guiding, food, livelihoods and the surrounding landscape. Each activity offers another reason for knowledge to remain useful in Phaplu.
There is a temptation to tell Himalayan hospitality through the stories of famous people who arrived from elsewhere. Happy House offers a more intimate perspective: the person who returned, the cook who teaches, the family whose rooms hold the history. Their choices are the reason the traveler can come at all.
I admire the affection in that return. A family home can become burdened by its past, especially when circumstances have carried its people far away. Here, the past has helped provide a purpose for the next chapter. The happiness in the name feels connected to the work of making a place welcoming again.
18 / Chiang Mai, Thailand
Raya Heritage
The makers came before the opening
For two years before Raya Heritage opened in 2018, designer Vichada Sitakalin worked with village artisans on the things guests would eventually live among. Weavers, potters and woodcarvers helped give the hotel its material identity. The opening came after that period of making.
The hotel’s account of its creation describes fabrics made with cotton, hemp and linen, including indigo work by weaving cooperatives. Set beside the Ping River, the 38-suite property uses those materials within spaces that feel open and residential. The handmade objects have everyday responsibilities: shading, furnishing, holding, comforting.
The sequence is worth considering. If craft enters a project only at the end, it has to fit whatever space remains. Giving makers time before the opening allows their work to help establish the character of the whole place. A textile can influence how a room feels, and a room can give a textile enough light and space to be appreciated.
That is good for the guest too. A stay brings repeated contact with details a quick photograph might miss. The texture beside a chair or the shape of a vessel becomes familiar over several days. The pleasure accumulates quietly because the objects are part of living there.
Raya Heritage makes an encouraging case for patience as a design resource. The two years of preparation become part of the rooms in ways a guest may never consciously identify. Yet the resulting coherence depends on them. The hotel gives the makers’ work a substantial setting, and gives visitors enough time with it to notice why that work matters.
19 / Samode, Rajasthan, India
Samode Palace
Many hands, many layers of beauty
Samode Palace rewards attention that moves slowly. Its painted surfaces, mirror work and ornamented interiors belong to a building that changed over generations. The pleasure is partly in realizing that a room can contain several periods of ambition at once.
The Samode family’s history traces the palace to a sixteenth-century fort, with substantial transformation in the nineteenth century. The Durbar Hall and Sheesh Mahal give that accumulated work a vivid expression. Paint, reflection and architectural detail cooperate to make the interiors feel larger in the imagination than their physical dimensions alone.
It is easy to describe a palace through the people who owned it. The surfaces also suggest the patience of the people who made it. Repeated motifs require judgment as well as labor: how a pattern turns a corner, how one color meets another, how an elaborate room still holds together. The individual makers may not all be named in the surviving account, but their contribution is present in what a visitor sees.
Using the palace as a hotel gives those rooms a continuing domestic purpose. People arrive, eat, talk and rest within a setting built for life as well as display. That use carries responsibility. The old work has to be cared for while the present-day guest is made comfortable.
Samode’s appeal lies in the richness of that task. The hotel can offer the pleasure of an extraordinary interior and also encourage a more attentive way of looking. A mirror becomes an arrangement of skilled decisions. A painted wall becomes evidence of time spent making something beautiful. For a visitor willing to linger over those details, the palace keeps opening up.
20 / Pahalgam, Kashmir
Welcomhotel Pine N Peak
Warmth has a local vocabulary
On the Rajwas Plateau above Pahalgam, Pine N Peak sits among pines with the Lidder valley below. The setting offers a large landscape; the interiors answer at the scale of a person coming indoors.
The hotel’s design account emphasizes Kashmiri woodwork, textiles and local patterns. Rooms and cottages give families different ways to settle in, while regional food keeps the surrounding culture present at the table. These choices matter because warmth is something a building has to create through many small decisions.
Wood carving offers the eye a close subject after the distances outside. Fabric softens a room and gives it texture. A familiar regional dish can help explain where you are more directly than a wall of scenic photographs. Together, those details make shelter feel particular to its setting.
The original attraction of a mountain hotel is often the view. The longer test is the quality of the hours when a guest wants to stay inside. A place needs to support conversation, a quiet afternoon and the different rhythms of people traveling together. Pine N Peak’s range of rooms and cottages gives that domestic side of a holiday proper consideration.
Its identity reaches beyond a scenic location. Kashmir’s craft traditions help furnish the experience of staying, giving the hands of makers a role alongside the landscape. The result is a hotel whose comforts can deepen a visitor’s sense of place. The mountains remain a compelling reason to travel, and the work inside gives someone another reason to remember the visit with affection.
21 / Five valleys, Bhutan
Six Senses Bhutan
A journey told through changing rooms
Six Senses Bhutan is a family of five lodges in Thimphu, Punakha, Paro, Gangtey and Bumthang. Treating them as one address would miss the most interesting part of the idea: the experience changes as the traveler moves between valleys.
The lodge descriptions give each setting a different architectural emphasis. Reflecting pools and broad views shape Thimphu. Punakha’s lower valley brings a farmhouse character. Paro relates to stone ruins, Gangtey to the open valley and its birdlife, and Bumthang to forest. The hotel group’s identity provides continuity while the individual sites supply variation.
That is a thoughtful use of repetition. A traveler can become familiar with the standard of care without having the same room, outlook and story repeated at every stop. The staff and buildings help make movement manageable, leaving attention available for what has changed outside.
The idea also encourages a more patient understanding of a country. A valley has its own terrain and rhythm. Giving it a distinct place to stay acknowledges that difference. The journey gains interest through comparison: warmer or cooler, open or wooded, close to town or more removed from it.
Making the itinerary part of the design gives the idea its strength. The lodges have to work individually, but also in the traveler’s memory of the whole journey. Their coherence comes from care that remains recognizable while the surroundings keep asking new questions. The experience can build from one place to the next, giving a visitor time to notice how much variety exists within the name Bhutan.
22 / Kathmandu, Nepal
The Dwarika’s
A rescued piece of wood becomes a life’s work
In 1952, Dwarika Das Shrestha saw an old carved wooden pillar being cut for firewood. He rescued it. The hotel’s family history begins with that act of attention, then follows the much longer commitment it set in motion.
Together with his wife Ambica, Shrestha collected architectural woodwork threatened by demolition and changing building practices in Kathmandu. Pieces became part of their home and, eventually, the hotel. The project created a reason to preserve both the objects and the skills needed to repair them. Its workshop made conservation a continuing activity within the property.
After Shrestha’s death in 1992, the family carried the work forward. Ambica, their daughter Sangita and later grandson René Vijay Shrestha Einhaus each have a place in the story. The hotel’s present character is the result of decisions made across generations, extending an initial rescue into an enduring institution.
There is something profoundly practical about this form of affection. Admiring a carved window is one thing. Finding somewhere to keep it, paying people to restore it and adapting a building around it requires sustained effort. A hotel can help support that effort because the rescued work contributes directly to why guests want to stay.
The Dwarika’s in Kathmandu is distinct from the family’s Sanctuary in Dhulikhel. Here, the city and its architectural inheritance are central. The courtyards and carved wood invite a traveler to consider what might otherwise have disappeared, and the workshop reminds them that preservation still has a present tense.
I find the original act moving because it was so specific. One person noticed one pillar. The scale of what followed was not yet visible. Many worthwhile places begin that way: somebody recognizes value while there is still time to save it, then keeps showing up for the work.
23 / Bentota, Sri Lanka
Lunuganga
A garden keeps asking for attention
Geoffrey Bawa bought Lunuganga in 1948 and spent decades shaping the estate. The garden became a place to test relationships between land, water, buildings and the movement of a person through them. Staying there brings a visitor unusually close to an architect’s continuing experiment.
The Geoffrey Bawa Trust’s ecological account describes a living collection of hundreds of plant species and a wider concern for the surrounding habitat. The estate’s relationship with conservation extends beyond the carefully composed views. Plants grow, animals move through, and the work of care continues after the architect’s lifetime.
The garden remains open for visits and stays, with accommodation arrangements through Teardrop Hotels. The trusts responsible for Bawa’s legacy give the place a continuing educational and preservation purpose. A guest can inhabit the setting for longer than a guided walk, allowing weather, light and the ordinary passing of a day to become part of the encounter.
That time matters. A garden is difficult to understand from one position. Its design unfolds as you move, and different conditions reveal different relationships. Living there briefly gives a person permission to revisit a path without needing a new destination each time.
Lunuganga is especially inspiring because its preservation cannot mean holding everything still. A living landscape requires choices, adjustment and knowledge. The people caring for it have to continue a conversation with the site. Bawa’s work provides a remarkable beginning for that conversation, while every growing season supplies another set of questions. The visitor’s pleasure is part of a larger, ongoing act of attention.
24 / Phobjikha Valley, Bhutan
Gangtey Lodge
The balloon journey that became a house
Khin Omar Win and Brett Melzer first came to Bhutan in 2003 with a different idea: exploring the possibility of hot-air ballooning. Their account of Gangtey Lodge follows that visit toward a more grounded project, developed with Bhutanese partner Yeshey Norbu.
Architect Mary Lou Thomson designed the lodge with reference to a Bhutanese farmhouse. Construction took three years, and some of the people involved in building it went on to work there. The finished house overlooks the Phobjikha Valley, giving its shared spaces a strong relationship with the landscape and nearby monastic life.
The change of plan is part of the appeal. Travel businesses often begin with a format and look for somewhere to place it. Here, encountering the country led the founders toward another kind of hospitality. The eventual building reflects a willingness to let the place alter the original ambition.
The continuity of the team adds warmth to the story. Somebody who helped build a lodge knows it through effort before knowing it through service. A room can hold the memory of its making as well as the daily work of welcoming guests. That is a substantial kind of belonging.
Gangtey Lodge is separate from the Six Senses lodge in the same valley. Its own story has a pleasingly human scale: a journey, a revised idea, a partnership and several years of work. The great valley view remains an obvious attraction. What makes the hotel more memorable is the evidence that its creators were willing to pay attention long enough for a different possibility to emerge.
Reading path 4
Time to pay attention
To a river, a forest, a guide, or the simple pleasure of an afternoon with less to do.
25 / Hua Hin, Thailand
Chiva-Som
Serious care should still leave room for pleasure
Before Chiva-Som was a resort, it was Boonchu Rojanastien’s beach house. Friends and family gathered there for time by the sea. In the early 1990s, he replaced the house with a more ambitious place dedicated to health and hospitality, opening Chiva-Som in 1995.
The resort’s history preserves an appealing part of his outlook: “above all, enjoy life.” That short phrase helps explain the warmth of the original idea. Taking care of oneself could include good food, companionship and pleasure in a setting, alongside the discipline of making changes.
His son Krip took over the leadership in 2007. The family connection gives the project continuity, but the broader significance is the way the original house expanded into a place where guests could devote time and attention to their own needs. The Hua Hin property has its own identity within a group that also includes Zulal in Qatar.
A setting can make it easier to pause, eat thoughtfully, move and reconsider routines. Those are meaningful forms of support without requiring extravagant promises about transformation. The quality of the welcome matters because people arrive with different expectations and different levels of confidence about where to begin.
Chiva-Som’s origin gives that work a hospitable starting point. A beach house is somewhere you invite people you care about. Carrying some of that feeling into a professional setting is an achievement worth admiring. The founding emphasis on enjoyment also leaves room for kindness toward the guest: a person seeking change is still a person who deserves a good afternoon, a satisfying meal and the simple pleasure of being looked after.
26 / Ranthambhore, Rajasthan, India
SUJÁN Sher Bagh
A family learned to look before it built a camp
The Singh family’s connection with Ranthambhore began long before Sher Bagh opened. Tejibir and Malvika Singh came as filmmakers, spending time in the landscape with tiger conservationist and park warden Fateh Singh Rathore. Their son Jaisal knew the place from infancy.
SUJÁN’s family timeline places the opening of Sher Bagh in 2000. The camp grew from years of attention to wildlife and place, rather than a hotel concept arriving in search of a scenic address. Jaisal and Anjali Singh carried that family connection into a wider hospitality business.
The filmmaking background is especially interesting. A camera rewards patience, observation and an understanding of how much happens outside the frame. Those habits also matter in a wildlife camp. The experience depends on guides who can interpret signs, explain behavior and help guests appreciate the landscape during the stretches when no celebrated animal appears.
A tiger sighting is never something a responsible host can manufacture on demand. The quality of a safari therefore rests on much more than the photograph a traveler hopes to bring home. Knowledge, pacing and the company of a good guide give the day value as it unfolds.
Sher Bagh’s family history gives that patience a credible foundation. The camp’s comforts support a visit to Ranthambhore, while the deeper attraction lies in being introduced to a place by people whose relationship with it has developed over time. I admire that continuity of interest. The landscape has remained worth looking at across generations, and hospitality has become one way to share the attention it deserves.
27 / Kimberley, Western Australia
El Questro Homestead
A vast view needs a grounded introduction
El Questro Homestead places a small number of guests beside Chamberlain Gorge. Its ten suites make the contrast with the scale of the Kimberley especially striking. The architecture offers comfort close to a landscape that remains much larger than the building.
That landscape has people and history. El Questro identifies its location on the Traditional Lands of the Wanjina Wungurr Wilinggin and Balanggarra peoples. Its account of the Indigenous Land Use Agreement describes the return of pastoral lease land to Traditional Owners and a continuing tourism lease. The agreement provides an important context for understanding the place beyond the view.
The Homestead’s current experience includes the Injiid Marlabu Calls Us First Nations encounter, alongside gorge excursions and other activities. Meals draw on produce from the Ord River Valley. Those connections give the remote setting a human and regional scale: people interpreting Country, growers supplying food, and staff making a demanding location welcoming.
The attraction of remoteness can sometimes obscure the work required to host somebody there. A small lodge needs a great deal of coordination, from the kitchen to transport and guiding. When that work is done well, the guest has more attention available for the place itself.
El Questro also follows the seasons. Its published schedule lists the Homestead’s 2026 closure for October 9, with reopening in early April 2027; dates should be reconfirmed when planning. That rhythm is part of the setting’s reality. The Homestead’s achievement is in creating an intimate welcome within it, while leaving room for visitors to learn whose Country they have come to see.
28 / Taupō, New Zealand
Huka Lodge
Ask the people who know the place to help it change
Huka Lodge began as Alan Pye’s fishing camp beside the Waikato River in 1924. When Alex van Heeren developed the lodge in 1984, interior designer Virginia Fisher and landscape designer Suzanne Turley helped establish the character people would come to know. Four decades later, both returned for its next major chapter.
The lodge reopened in 2025 after a substantial renovation. The property’s history and the reopening account describe Fisher and Turley working alongside Christian Anderson Architects. The renewed public spaces include a River Room that gives the Waikato a stronger presence in the building. A new wellness area uses small structures influenced by the New Zealand holiday house.
Bringing the original designers back was a thoughtful choice. Familiarity can be a creative advantage when the people involved remain curious. They know which details carry emotional weight, where practical needs have changed and how much alteration the place can absorb while remaining itself.
The river provides continuity across all these chapters. A fishing camp and a contemporary luxury lodge ask very different things of a building, yet both depend on the appeal of spending time beside the water. The renovation could expand comfort while keeping that relationship legible.
Huka’s story makes renewal feel like a form of care. There is affection in asking people with a long memory of a place to help imagine its future. The new work gives returning guests something fresh to discover, while preserving enough familiarity for the return to mean something. That balance is difficult, and the decision to carry the creative relationships forward deserves recognition of its own.
29 / Sydney, Australia
Park Hyatt Sydney
Give the harbor a carefully made foreground
Park Hyatt Sydney has an extraordinary neighbor across the water: the Sydney Opera House. The challenge for the hotel is to create rooms that deserve attention without competing with what guests have come to see.
The 2012 transformation, designed with Melbourne’s BAR Studio, gave the interiors a material vocabulary drawn from Australia. Sandstone and spotted gum helped establish the setting indoors. Works by artists including Tim Johnson, Bruce Armstrong, Robert Bridgewater and Robert Billington brought distinct creative voices into the hotel.
Those choices give the view a thoughtful foreground. A room needs to be more than a viewing platform, especially when someone is living in it for several days. Materials, proportions and art continue to matter when the curtains are drawn or the guest’s attention moves away from the harbor.
Commissioned artwork is particularly useful in this setting. It can invite a visitor to encounter Australia through individual artists as well as through its most recognized building. A place becomes more interesting when its identity includes several voices, each working at a different scale.
The hotel’s position in The Rocks gives it a close physical relationship with the harbor. The design makes that relationship comfortable to inhabit. I admire the care given to the part of the experience that sits nearest the guest: the surface beside a chair, the art on a wall, the way a room frames what lies beyond it. A famous view supplies the occasion. The work inside helps turn the occasion into a place somebody wants to stay.
30 / Takagamine, Kyoto, Japan
Aman Kyoto
A garden finds the building it was waiting for
The garden at Aman Kyoto began with another ambition: a textile museum. That project was never completed as intended, but the shaped landscape remained. The hotel gave it a new way to be inhabited.
Aman’s account of the property describes Kerry Hill’s design within a forested setting in Takagamine. The guest buildings draw on the Japanese ryokan, with tatami and sliding doors helping establish their domestic scale. Their restrained forms leave considerable attention available for the garden around them.
The earlier project gives the place an unusual depth. A landscape can outlive the plan that first shaped it. Paths, stone and planted spaces continue to offer possibilities even when the original building never arrives. Recognizing those possibilities requires an architect to begin by looking carefully at work already present.
The restaurant Taka-An adds another connection to the area’s creative history through Hon’ami Kōetsu, the artist associated with an early-seventeenth-century community in Takagamine. Garden, architecture and dining each provide a different way to encounter the setting.
The landscape’s second life is especially encouraging. An unfinished project can contain years of thought worth carrying forward. Aman Kyoto’s buildings give the garden a use that allows its earlier effort to remain visible. The visitor receives a place that feels accumulated rather than instantly assembled, with enough quiet in the architecture to notice the growth, stone and patient work around it.
Good work leaves a welcome behind.
The story of a hotel often begins with a founder or an architect. Over time, it belongs to more people: the cook who teaches, the person who restores a carving, the team who knows what a tired parent needs.
That shared effort gives these places their character. It is also why they are worth writing about with care. There are useful ideas here for anyone trying to make a business people remember with affection.
If that is the kind of work you are doing, I would enjoy a conversation about writing or consulting. You can also read more about my work.
A few useful distinctions
Before you go
Are these 30 hotels ranked?
No. The thirty stories follow four reading paths through landscape, city life, heritage and time outdoors. They consider the people and decisions behind each place rather than assigning a booking order.
Is Six Senses Bhutan a single hotel?
Six Senses Bhutan comprises five lodges in Thimphu, Punakha, Paro, Gangtey and Bumthang. It is treated as one connected hotel experience in this essay’s thirty entries.
Is Gangtey Lodge the same as Six Senses Gangtey?
No. Gangtey Lodge is a separate property in the Phobjikha Valley. Both appear here through their own stories.
Which Dwarika’s property is included?
This essay covers The Dwarika’s in Kathmandu, Nepal. The family’s Sanctuary in Dhulikhel is a separate property.
Does Cempedak welcome young children?
Cempedak currently welcomes guests aged 15 and above. Confirm the property’s current policy before making arrangements.
Is El Questro Homestead open all year?
No. It operates seasonally. Its published schedule lists a closure on October 9, 2026, followed by reopening in early April 2027. Dates can change, so confirm directly with El Questro.
