Hotels With Soul / Europe & the United Kingdom
28 remarkable hotels.A past worth carrying forward.
Grand houses, island gardens and mountain retreats, kept alive by people with something of their own to contribute.
A father and daughter help hold up Claridge’s while a new world is built beneath it. A chef at the Ritz finds an unexpected connection with Escoffier in the archives. On Lake Como, a boatman explains what the morning wind used to carry.
These are the details that make me want to know a hotel better. The architecture may draw us in, but people give the place its depth. Across Europe and the United Kingdom, I found twenty-eight different ways of making an inheritance useful, welcoming and alive.
Palaces & city life
The grand houses
A familiar address can still make room for a new idea.
St. Moritz, Switzerland
Badrutt’s Palace
A grand old house makes room for another way to belong
The most revealing addition to Badrutt’s Palace may be the passage beneath the street. The Serlas Wing stands opposite the original hotel, with contemporary rooms by ACPV Architects Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel. An underground connection brings its guests back to the Palace and to Chesa Veglia, the historic farmhouse that houses several of its restaurants. New accommodation, familiar company.
Caspar Badrutt opened the Palace in 1896. Its grand hall has since become part of the social geography of St. Moritz: a place to linger, observe, meet someone and be met. A hotel with that kind of attachment has a delicate renovation problem. People may want a different bathroom while wanting exactly the same feeling of arrival. The Serlas project gives those wishes room to coexist.
The new wing draws on Engadine building traditions through stone, framed windows and a quieter architectural presence. Inside, oak and richly textured fabrics establish warmth without asking every surface to impersonate the nineteenth century. The reporting on its opening also describes regional sgraffito along the underground route. Even the journey between buildings becomes an occasion for local craft.
There is an understanding of loyalty in this arrangement. A returning guest’s affection belongs to a sequence of experiences, some grand and some wonderfully ordinary. The chair where a conversation ran late can matter as much as the room upstairs. Badrutt’s has allowed the sleeping arrangements to evolve while keeping the social life of the house within reach. That is a generous way for a landmark to grow older.
London, England
Claridge’s
The people who held up the legend
While guests continued to arrive at Claridge’s, engineers were creating five new basement levels beneath the working hotel. It is an extraordinary project to consider over afternoon tea.
The building’s weight had to be transferred onto new supports while excavation proceeded below, with the daily life of the hotel continuing above.
The Royal Academy of Engineering’s account gives this feat a human center. Jim Mackey returned from retirement to work on the project. His daughter Michelle, a senior engineer, had taken a different route into construction, retraining after a career in mathematics and statistics research. Father and daughter helped solve a problem in which precision meant protecting both a historic building and the people inside it.
That story deserves a place beside the ballroom and the famous guests. Claridge’s longevity depends on people whose best work is often invisible. A guest should be able to enjoy the room without having to admire the structural calculations that make it possible. There is something deeply hospitable about taking that much trouble on someone else’s behalf.
The spa designed by André Fu, which opened in 2022, gave part of that new underground space a markedly different atmosphere from the public rooms above. The old hotel acquired a new kind of quiet. Its history remained visible, but its possibilities expanded.
Claridge’s makes the work inside the word “preservation” easier to understand. Sometimes keeping a beloved place alive requires extraordinary new construction. The elegance upstairs is supported by imagination, skill and a family of engineers who understood exactly what was resting on their decisions.
Sources: Claridge’s today.
Stockholm, Sweden
Grand Hôtel
A city’s ceremonial life, with coffee in the morning
On December 13, Nobel laureates staying at Stockholm’s Grand Hôtel can be woken with a Swedish Lucia procession, coffee and saffron buns. The hotel’s history records this small morning ceremony alongside its much larger association with the prizes. The Nobel banquet took place here from 1901 through 1929, before moving to City Hall. Laureates and their families have continued to stay.
The change of scale is touching. An achievement of international importance is followed by something local, musical and domestic. Hospitality gives a visitor a way into the culture beyond the formal occasion that brought them there.
French chef Régis Cadier founded the hotel in 1874. Another consequential figure was Wilhelmina Skogh, whose expansion included the Winter Garden in 1909. Bringing greenery indoors gave Stockholm a gathering place that could offer relief from the northern winter. The space later acquired a jazz life of its own. Each chapter added another reason for people to use the hotel together.
That relationship with the city was visible again at the 150th anniversary in 2024, when celebrations extended to the waterfront outside. A hotel that has hosted so many private milestones made room for a public birthday.
The waterfront setting is magnificent, but the more interesting inheritance is social. Grand Hôtel has helped Stockholm welcome the world while keeping Swedish customs in the encounter. Its rituals make grandeur approachable: a garden in winter, a celebration on the quay, a cup of coffee delivered with a song. Those are details a guest can carry home.
Paris, France
La Réserve Paris
An arrival organized around a person
La Réserve Paris begins with a surprisingly consequential choice: there is no conventional reception desk. Guests are welcomed in the Louis XV Salon and accompanied to their rooms. In a building full of sumptuous materials, this small change in procedure may tell you the most about the house.
A desk gives both parties a role immediately. One person stands behind it; the other waits in front. La Réserve’s arrangement allows a more conversational beginning. The administrative work still exists, of course. The guest simply encounters a host before encountering a transaction.
Michel Reybier and designer Jacques Garcia shaped this hotel from a nineteenth-century mansion whose earlier lives included the family of the Duc de Morny and, much later, Pierre Cardin. The restoration retained and recovered historic woodwork, cornices and moldings. Suites outnumber rooms, and the library is reserved for resident guests and their friends. That last provision is lovely. It imagines the guest as someone with a social life in Paris, someone who might want to invite another person over.
The hotel marked its tenth anniversary in 2025. Chef Jérôme Banctel has been part of its story since the opening. Continuity of that kind allows an intimate hotel to accumulate its own character, beyond the character borrowed from an old building.
The scale of the hotel and the way it welcomes people belong together. Beautiful rooms can suggest a private residence; the welcome and the library’s invitation make that suggestion useful. The lavishness has a human purpose. It gives people a setting in which they can settle, receive friends and feel that their time in Paris belongs to them.
London, England
The Connaught
A private world with something to give the street
Outside The Connaught, Tadao Ando’s fountain Silence belongs to the experience of walking through Mayfair. You can encounter it without a room key. The hotel’s own guide to the neighborhood points visitors toward it, placing the commission within the life of the surrounding streets.
That is a thoughtful relationship for a luxury hotel to have with its address. An entrance can announce status. It can also contribute something worth stopping for. Here, art extends the hotel’s care beyond the people staying inside.
The Connaught Bar offers a different form of welcome. Agostino Perrone and Giorgio Bargiani lead a team working in David Collins Studio’s richly detailed room. Its fame could easily overwhelm the encounter, yet the craft remains something one person makes for another. A drink has to survive the distance between reputation and the guest holding the glass.
The team’s 2024 cocktail book opened that craft to people at home. Alongside signature drinks were the stories, preparations and techniques behind them, including nonalcoholic recipes. There is generosity in that decision. Sharing the method gives interested people a way to participate in the work. It also expresses confidence in all the things a recipe cannot bottle: attention, timing, conversation and the pleasure of being looked after.
The fountain and the book make an interesting pair. Both let a little of The Connaught travel beyond its walls. A hotel known for discretion can still be culturally generous. Privacy for its guests and openness toward the city can be held with equal care.
Sources: The Connaught Bar and its team.
Paris, France
Ritz Paris
A chef finds a fresh beginning in the archives
When Eugénie Béziat began shaping her cooking at the Ritz Paris, she went looking through its history. She discovered a connection between Auguste Escoffier, flowers and fragrance that spoke to her own interest in aromas. The archives offered something she could use creatively.
In her interview with the hotel, Béziat describes influences formed during a childhood in Africa and the South of France. She also recalls a twentieth-birthday meal at Hélène Darroze’s restaurant, particularly an oyster with Granny Smith apple, that helped change her sense of what she wanted to do. There is a satisfying line between those experiences and her arrival at Espadon in 2023: a young diner’s imagination, years of work, then the opportunity to bring her own ideas into a storied kitchen.
The Ritz could ask a chef to carry a daunting amount of history. Béziat’s approach allows history to become a source of curiosity. Escoffier’s interest in fragrance makes room for her own memories and ingredients. The result need not resemble an old menu to remain in conversation with it.
Down in the kitchens, the École Ritz Escoffier has offered another way into that tradition since 1988. Its teaching welcomes enthusiasts as well as professionals. Knowledge is practiced, corrected and passed along by people working beside one another.
The Ritz becomes especially inspiring as a place where an intimidating name can lead someone toward discovery. The school gives a learner a task to attempt. The restaurant gives an accomplished chef room to develop. A great culinary inheritance stays alive when people are allowed to add something of themselves to it.
Paris, France
Cheval Blanc Paris
Craft waits along the way
At Cheval Blanc Paris, a woven metal work by Sophie Mallebranche accompanies the staircase leading toward the Dior Spa. Bronze panels by Ingrid Donat sit near the lift. These are places a guest passes through while going somewhere else, which makes them especially interesting locations for art.
The hotel occupies part of La Samaritaine on the Seine. Its account of the building and interiors connects Henri Sauvage’s 1928 Art Deco architecture with Édouard François’s restoration and Peter Marino’s work inside. The building’s Parisian identity remains legible, while contemporary artists and makers provide a new layer of detail.
The transition from department store to hotel changes the visitor’s relationship with the place. Shopping encourages movement from one attraction to another. A hotel has to support repetition: the same lift in the morning, the same stair after a treatment, the same route back to a room. Art in those ordinary paths can reward a second look, then a third. Familiarity becomes an opportunity to notice more.
Mallebranche’s medium is particularly apt. Metal, normally associated with structure or hardware, acquires the delicacy of woven material. Donat’s openwork bronze brings the hand of a maker into something as practical as circulation. Their contributions give the large architectural project a scale a person can meet at close range.
Attention to the in-between spaces adds up over a stay. An extraordinary room is a destination; a thoughtful passage makes the rest of the stay feel considered too. Cheval Blanc’s setting carries immense visual power. The quieter achievement is the invitation to keep discovering it after the first impression has passed.
Villas, villages & craft
Italy, close enough to touch
A boatman’s knowledge, a blacksmith’s railing, the garden between a town and its sea.
Tuscany, Italy
Castelfalfi
A village keeps its agricultural calendar
Castelfalfi’s history includes a wonderfully practical document. Its sixteenth-century statutes set rules for the communal olive mill and the grape harvest. Centuries before anyone arrived for a Tuscan holiday, people here had to work out how to share equipment and bring in a crop.
Those details make the village easier to understand. The stone buildings were part of a working arrangement with the surrounding land. Their beauty grew out of cultivation, labor and the ordinary need to get things done together.
The estate’s historical account reaches much further back, but the agricultural thread is the one I find most useful when considering its present life as a resort. The Lohia family acquired Castelfalfi in 2021, a change documented by the seller, TUI. The current estate gives guests ways to encounter its olive harvest, wine growing and beekeeping, alongside the restored village and hotel.
An encounter with a beekeeper has a different value from another attractive view. Someone who knows the work can explain what the visitor would otherwise miss. Harvest experiences also acknowledge that Tuscany has a calendar of its own. The land is doing something whether or not a guest has arrived to admire it.
There is enormous appeal in a beautifully restored borgo. Castelfalfi becomes more interesting when its architecture leads the visitor outward, toward the fields and people that give the village meaning. The old mill rules are a reminder that this place was always about relationships. A thoughtful stay can make some of those relationships visible again.
Sources: Current estate experiences.
Plose, South Tyrol, Italy
Forestis
A view that outlasted the original plan
The building that preceded Forestis began with an ambition interrupted by war. In 1912, the Austrian monarchy planned a tuberculosis sanatorium on this wooded slope of the Plose. The project was never realized as intended. The setting remained, waiting for another use.
According to the hotel’s history, Alois Hinteregger discovered the old wooden building in 2000. Its light, woodland setting and view of the Dolomites prompted a hotel project that opened in 2009. Forestis began its next chapter in 2020. The important distinction is that this is a place with a sanatorium plan in its past, rather than a former working sanatorium whose medical history can simply be carried into the present.
The landscape explains the continuity more convincingly than any promise of transformation. Forest, altitude, daylight and mountains were compelling then; they remain compelling now. The modern architecture gives those features space to dominate the experience. The hotel’s use of naturally processed dolomite also brings a material relationship with the surrounding region indoors.
The story unfolds over decades, and that pace seems appropriate. A site can have qualities that survive the failure of its first purpose. Recognizing them requires imagination, but also restraint. The contemporary hotel gives those enduring qualities a setting that people can enjoy today. It can offer something entirely sufficient: a carefully made place from which to pay attention to these mountains.
Forestis is especially interesting within South Tyrol, where Alpine building traditions and contemporary design have room to speak to one another. Its history is unsettled enough to make that conversation feel alive.
Sorrento, Italy
Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria
The garden between the piazza and the sea
The approach to Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria changes the pace of Sorrento. Piazza Tasso is close at hand, but orange groves and garden separate the hotel from the activity outside. Beyond the buildings, the ground drops toward the harbor and the Gulf of Naples. The property gives guests both the town and a place to withdraw from it.
The Fiorentino family’s hotel dates to 1834. In a 2024 interview marking its 190th anniversary, Guido Fiorentino described long-serving staff, the care of the gardens and the continuity of aperitivo on the terrace and musical evenings. He also noted that the sixth generation was already working in the business. The revealing part is how readily his account moves between family history and everyday work.
Gardens require that kind of continuity. Their atmosphere depends on attention that must be renewed well after an anniversary party ends. So does the feeling of being recognized by a team. The hotel’s inheritance is partly architectural, but it also lives in people who know how the place behaves across a day and a season.
The three villas, built over the nineteenth century, give this cliffside property the character of something accumulated. Its celebrity history is substantial, yet the ongoing traditions make a stronger case for its future. A terrace matters because people still gather there. A garden matters because someone keeps it welcoming.
That long view carries a considerable responsibility. One generation receives a place already loved by strangers and works to make it worthy of the next generation’s affection. At Excelsior Vittoria, the route from the busy piazza through the garden gives that responsibility a physical form.
Porto Ercole, Tuscany, Italy
Hotel Il Pellicano
A childhood survives inside a grown-up hotel
Marie-Louise Sciò’s childhood memories of Il Pellicano include a small act of rebellion: she and her brother released lobsters into the saltwater pool. It is a marvelous detail to find in a hotel’s account of its creative influences. The place existed as a world to play in before it became a world she would help shape.
Il Pellicano opened in 1965, created by Patsy and Michael Graham on the coast near Porto Ercole. Roberto Sciò acquired it in 1979. His daughter’s later role in its creative life brought childhood familiarity together with a designer’s eye. The story of this Tuscan home is therefore both a founding romance and a family’s continuing relationship with a particular cove.
The hotel’s visual identity is widely admired. Colors, stripes and the poolside setting travel easily in photographs. The more difficult thing to carry forward is the permission to enjoy yourself that made those images appealing in the first place. A design can be copied rather quickly. The knowledge of where people like to sit, how lunch becomes an afternoon, or which details returning guests feel possessive about takes longer to acquire.
That is why the lobster story matters. It introduces affection, mischief and familiarity into an otherwise immaculate picture. Someone responsible for the hotel remembers being a child in it. There is an understanding that a beautiful place should accommodate life, including life that refuses to behave for the photograph.
Il Pellicano’s achievement is the care with which that feeling has been allowed to mature. Its elegance leaves room for delight. I suspect that is what many people are trying to borrow when they borrow its colors.
Fiesole hills, Florence, Italy
Il Salviatino
Florence, with a little room around it
Il Salviatino gives Florence a different frame. From its hillside setting, the city becomes something you can contemplate at a distance before returning to its streets. That change of perspective is central to the appeal of the villa. The relationship with Florence remains close, while the guest gains a garden and some breathing room.
The building has supported remarkably different lives. The villa’s history moves through the Bardi and Salviati families, the writer and critic Ugo Ojetti, and a period when it housed Stanford’s overseas program. It was a home, a place of cultural exchange and a setting for study before its present hotel chapter. Each use suggests people looking outward from the same hillside with different purposes.
Alessandra Rovati Vitali’s involvement adds another sensibility. The hotel’s description of its rooms emphasizes individually chosen furnishings and handcrafted details under her direction. Her connection to Tearose, the floral and design business, offers a fitting way to think about a historic house: composition has to respond to a living setting, and it can change without discarding its foundations.
A villa hotel carries a particular challenge. Guests should be able to enjoy the richness of a private house without feeling they have wandered into a room where they must avoid touching anything. The gardens, the outlook and the changing human uses of Il Salviatino help keep it from becoming a sealed historical scene.
The villa lets visitors hold two scales of experience at once. Florence supplies the density of a great city. The hillside gives enough space to absorb it. That interval can become one of the most valuable parts of a cultural trip.
Moltrasio, Lake Como, Italy
Passalacqua
The person who can explain the water
In a preopening conversation published by Passalacqua, a Lake Como boatman named Beppe explained the lake’s winds. The morning Tivano and the afternoon Breva once helped sailing boats carry goods out and return. His knowledge turned the water from a beautiful surface into a place with working habits.
He had grown up on the lake, worked its public boats and spent years at Grand Hotel Tremezzo before preparing to become part of Passalacqua’s story. This is the kind of local knowledge that can change a visitor’s attention. Someone who knows the water has noticed things a guest could spend a week overlooking.
Inside, the De Santis family’s approach to the interiors gives a similarly personal character to the eighteenth-century villa. Terrazzo, Como silk, Murano glass and collected objects sit within rooms arranged for living together. The library and kitchen belong to the social life of the house. Abundance feels more convincing when it supports ordinary pleasures: finding a book, lingering in a shared room, being curious about what is happening in the kitchen.
Passalacqua’s appeal lies in the connection between those intimate arrangements and the immense view outside. There is grandeur in the villa, but the memorable discoveries can arrive at conversational scale. A boatman explains a wind. A material leads you toward the people who make it. A room invites you to stay longer than you intended.
There is real generosity in that exchange. It lends a visitor some of the familiarity that normally takes years to earn. The lake remains extraordinary, and gradually it becomes a little more understandable.
Venice, Italy
The Venice Venice Hotel
An old trading city keeps exchanging ideas
Venice Venice occupies Ca’ da Mosto, an ancient palazzo on the Grand Canal that once housed the Leon Bianco hotel. Its recent history included a long period without that public life. The contemporary hotel returns the building to use while making a spirited claim about the kind of cultural life Venice can still support.
The hotel’s account of its art and architecture places works associated with Arte Povera, Fluxus and other modern movements inside the historic structure. That meeting produces a useful sense of friction. The old walls are substantial enough to hold ideas that arrived many centuries after they were built.
Francesco Simeti’s installation Bocoli, Leoni e Drappeggi reassembles Venetian visual references for the Bitter Club. Near the water entrance, Fabio Viale’s Souvenir di Pietà brings another contemporary interpretation into the guest’s path. The art asks for attention beyond the reassurance of a perfectly period room.
At ground level, Venice M’art connects design, food and a historic passage between Campo Santi Apostoli and the canal. I like the idea of that passage as part of the hotel’s identity. A building in Venice has a relationship with movement on land and water, with people arriving for different reasons, with the city’s long habit of encounter.
The project makes an encouraging contribution to the city. Venice deserves new cultural work as well as careful conservation. A restored palazzo can contribute to both. Venice Venice treats the building as a place capable of receiving another chapter, and gives artists a role in writing it. The result invites visitors to be curious about the present city as well as devoted to its past.
Giudecca, Venice, Italy
Hotel Cipriani, A Belmond Hotel
The pleasure of crossing back
Giuseppe Cipriani’s idea for a hotel on Giudecca depended on a small separation. Venice would remain close, but guests could return across the water to gardens, space and a different pace. The hotel opened in 1958. Its island setting still makes that crossing part of the experience.
The distance is meaningful because it is easy to understand physically. You leave one kind of activity, travel over the lagoon and arrive somewhere with room around it. The journey gives the day a hinge. A city visit and an unhurried afternoon can both feel complete.
Cipriani’s current culinary chapter offers another kind of return. Chef Vania Ghedini came to Oro with experience that included years in Morocco. In LVMH’s account of her work, that wider experience accompanies her understanding of Italian ingredients and traditions. Massimo Bottura provides creative direction, while Peter Marino’s 2026 redesign gives the restaurant a renewed setting.
A Venetian hotel has every reason to honor its location. It also has good reason to welcome what a chef learned elsewhere. Venice’s own history makes that openness feel appropriate. The city’s character has been shaped by arrivals, exchanges and the transformation of outside influences into something unmistakably its own.
Movement and retreat both have a place at Cipriani. Guests cross the water and return with a changed mood; a chef comes home with new knowledge. The hotel’s enduring idea has enough room for those journeys. Its calm is supported by an ongoing curiosity about the world just beyond it.
Amalfi Coast, Italy
Borgo Santandrea
A cliffside hotel, made at the scale of a hand
Borgo Santandrea is a vertical experience. Terraces and paths lead down the cliff toward the sea, so the hotel is encountered through movement as much as through a single view. That makes its railings, floors and small transitions unusually important. They are the things a person meets along the way.
The project’s account from furniture maker Molteni names several of the people behind those details. Local blacksmith Piero Esposito made railings. Paolo Erba worked on walnut bookshelves. Cotto Vietri developed handmade floor tiles. The restoration of a 1960s property became an opportunity to bring multiple forms of craft into daily use.
The hotel documents 31 tile patterns, with references reaching from archaeological sites such as Pompeii and Herculaneum to Gio Ponti. That span of influence gives the blue-and-white interiors more depth than a coastal color scheme alone could provide. The patterns belong to a region with a long material history and a lively modern design tradition.
There is considerable ambition in the scale of the redevelopment. The named makers deserve to remain visible within the story. A railing can be beautiful because of its line, but knowing that a local blacksmith made it adds another kind of attention. Someone had to resolve how it would feel, join and turn.
Borgo Santandrea’s views do not need much explanation. Its craft rewards explanation very well. On a coastline that can overwhelm the eye, the hotel gives the hand and the curious mind something to enjoy too. The grand setting is made more intimate by the care invested in the route through it.
Coasts & river country
Time by the water
Along the Atlantic, Mediterranean and Aegean, a place acquires the character of the people who welcome you.
Mount Igeldo, San Sebastián, Spain
Akelarre
A meal is allowed to become an evening
Akelarre existed as a restaurant long before it offered a bed. Pedro Subijana arrived in 1975, five years after the restaurant opened, and developed the culinary identity that made this hillside outside San Sebastián a destination. The hotel, which opened in 2017, extended the experience into the hours around the meal.
There is good hospitality in that sequence. A restaurant asks guests to travel toward a table. A hotel can give them time to arrive without rushing, and somewhere to go afterward without ending the evening with another journey. The food remains central, but the visit acquires more breathing room.
The original hotel announcement describes 22 rooms, all facing the sea, and the work of Mecanismo architects Marta Urtasun and Pedro Rica. The design connects the rooms and shared spaces with the restaurant’s existing world. The Bay of Biscay provides an outlook broad enough to hold attention before and after the intricacy of dinner.
The expansion has a clear purpose. Akelarre did not need to invent a new reason for people to come. It had a deeply developed reason already. The architectural challenge was to protect that focus while making the surrounding experience more generous.
It is easy to imagine hospitality growth as a series of additions. This project is more interesting when understood as a consideration of time. How does someone feel on arrival? What happens when dinner ends? The hotel answers those questions with rooms, views and continuity. Subijana’s long commitment to a particular kitchen is given a larger setting without losing the table at its center.
Sources: Akelarre’s history and current hotel.
Vouliagmeni, Greece
Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens
Modern Greece has a history worth keeping
Athens is often introduced through antiquity. Astir Palace offers another chapter: the confidence of modern Greek seaside life. Its peninsula at Vouliagmeni, with pines, beaches and low buildings near the water, became part of that story in the twentieth century. Four Seasons reopened the property in 2019.
The hotel’s architectural credits name the Greek architects behind the original project as well as the teams responsible for its newer chapter. That continuity matters. This was an existing place with a recognizable identity, requiring a thoughtful relationship between the buildings, interiors and landscape. Meyer Davis worked on interiors, while Thomas Doxiadis’s landscape design formed part of the renewed setting.
One detail from the 2019 opening announcement is particularly touching. The general manager described a team that included local people and Greeks returning home from careers abroad. A major reopening can be told through construction and investment; it can also be a reason for someone to come back to a place they know.
The peninsula gives this return a tangible setting. Guests can engage with Athens and still spend substantial time by the sea. The Arion, Nafsika and bungalow accommodation offer different relationships with that landscape, rather than requiring one uniform version of a resort stay.
Modern history deserves this kind of care. Greece has remarkable recent architectural and social traditions alongside its ancient ones. Astir Palace helps make those traditions visible, and its reopening gave a new generation of hospitality professionals a way to participate in them.
Puigpunyent, Mallorca, Spain
Grand Hotel Son Net
A house with enough character to hold pattern
At Son Net, a seventeenth-century courtyard, a chapel and a well fed by a rock spring survive within a much newer hospitality story. The house dates to 1672 and became a hotel in 1998. Its latest restoration gave designer Lorenzo Castillo substantial historic material to work with.
The project account from Dornbracht describes the collaboration with Torras y Sierra Arquitectos and Ángel Verdú, and the renewed interiors completed through the 2020–2023 restoration period. Beams, old fireplaces and marble floors coexist with antiques, patterned carpets and generous curtains. There is enough underlying architectural character to support that richness.
The rooms trust people to enjoy complexity. A room can contain several periods, textures and associations without becoming confusing. The pleasure lies partly in discovering how those things relate. An old fireplace gives a patterned room an anchor; a useful contemporary bathroom makes the inherited grandeur easier to inhabit.
The setting above Puigpunyent supplies another layer. This is inland Mallorca, in the landscape of the Serra de Tramuntana, with gardens, olive and orange trees and a vineyard growing Malvasía. The country-house character has a relationship with cultivation outside the walls.
Son Net shows how a restoration can remain hospitable while preserving an appetite for detail. Its beauty asks for more than one glance, but it is organized around rooms people can use. The well and the courtyard are especially persuasive pieces of the story. Long before the present furnishings arrived, the house already knew how to gather water, light and people. The new work gives those old arrangements another life.
La Croix-Valmer, France
Lily of the Valley
A family lunch belongs in the picture
Lucie Weill describes joining her daughters for lunch at Pépé, the beach restaurant at Lily of the Valley. They share small dishes, and she encourages them to try everything, including vegetables from the garden. In a 2026 conversation about her day, the moment sits comfortably beside work, exercise and a favorite breakfast terrace.
That ordinary family scene says a great deal about the hotel’s character. Weill spent childhood summers here, above Gigaro on the Saint-Tropez peninsula. The place now holds another generation’s memories. Her account gives its emphasis on wellbeing a recognizably human scale: there is work to do, a body to look after, and lunch with children who are learning what they like.
The hotel opened in 2019, with Philippe Starck’s architecture and interiors. The Leading Hotels account describes low buildings, foliage, comfortable furnishings and an open connection between lounge, dining and view. The design supports an unforced movement between activity and ease.
Pleasure has room to breathe within a hotel that takes movement and personal care seriously. A beautiful setting should not become another place where a guest feels evaluated. The family lunch offers a warmer image: curiosity at the table, time together, something good growing nearby.
Lily of the Valley’s strongest invitation is to imagine a day arranged with more care. Its hillside, its beach and its dining rooms give that day different textures. The appeal becomes especially convincing when the person shaping the hotel can describe a life being lived within it, with children at the table and the afternoon still ahead.
Türkbükü, Bodrum Peninsula, Türkiye
Maçakızı
People followed the person who welcomed them
The family’s account of Maçakızı begins with Ayla Emiroğlu moving to Bodrum in 1977. Her food and personality drew people to a modest place, and her following stayed with her as she opened elsewhere along the peninsula. The story describes guests making the journey even when reaching her beach club required a boat.
That is a remarkable foundation for a hotel. Before an address became famous, people wanted to be where this particular host was. Home cooking and a distinct personality established an attachment that could survive a change of setting.
Her son Sahir Erozan built a restaurant and nightlife career in Washington, D.C., before returning to work with his mother. Their shared story led through Gölköy to the present hotel in Türkbükü. The current Maçakızı carries the confidence of a sophisticated coastal destination, but the family history gives its sociability a more intimate origin.
The useful question is what remains when a small, personal place grows famous. At Maçakızı, the founding story suggests an answer worth protecting: people should still feel drawn toward the company and the table. The setting can become more elaborate while that basic invitation stays recognizable.
Ayla’s place in this history makes hospitality feel like a creative act. She brought people together through her own taste and manner, and they chose to follow. Her son’s experience added another perspective without erasing the original attraction. The hotel matters partly because it preserves the influence of a woman whose way of welcoming people helped shape how visitors came to love this stretch of Bodrum.
Sources: Maçakızı today.
Lamego, Portugal
Six Senses Douro Valley
A garden gets its pathways back
The Douro Valley is often understood from a distance: terraces, river, hills. At Six Senses, one of the more interesting stories takes place under the trees. The hotel’s account of its historic garden restoration describes work led by landscape architect Joana Neto to recover routes through a nineteenth-century woodland garden, including follies, water features and places to pause.
A garden of that kind is designed through movement. A path turns, a structure appears, water changes what you hear, and a seat gives you a reason to stop. Restoring it requires more than keeping the vegetation attractive. Someone has to understand the sequence of experiences the original landscape was meant to offer.
That is a thoughtful complement to a hotel set in a former manor house among vineyards. Architecture provides rooms for hospitality; the garden provides another set of spaces, open to weather and seasonal change. A visitor can become familiar with them by returning along the same path on a different morning.
The hotel’s food and wine experiences keep the agricultural setting within reach as well. In this valley, cultivation is part of what the guest has come to see. The landscape’s beauty carries the work of generations, and learning a little about its products makes that beauty more legible.
The recovered garden’s value unfolds slowly. A restored path does not require a ceremony every time someone uses it. It simply offers a better walk. The person may never know how much research or labor went into making the route feel natural. They leave having paid closer attention to a place, which is a lovely outcome for a hotel to make possible.
Poulati, Sifnos, Greece
Verina Astra
The enormous view and the small garden
The suites at Verina Astra take their names from constellations. The hotel looks out toward the Aegean from Poulati, near Artemonas, with an infinity pool that makes the horizon part of the composition. It is a setting that naturally encourages the eye to travel far.
Then there is Bostani, the restaurant within its gardens. Its name brings attention back to the cultivated ground close at hand. The current restaurant account describes a kitchen led by chef Nick Thomas, supplied by its own garden alongside farmers and producers on Sifnos and elsewhere in the Cyclades. The relationship between the expansive view and those modest, productive plots is what interests me most.
A great island outlook can make everything else seem secondary. A garden corrects the scale. It asks someone to notice what is in season, what can grow here and who knows how to prepare it. The island becomes a place that feeds people, with particular ingredients and habits, as well as a beautiful place to look at.
Bostani offers different ways to spend an evening, from a tasting menu to à la carte dining and smaller plates at the bar. That flexibility is a hospitable detail. Guests can bring different appetites and moods to the same setting without being required to participate in one prescribed ceremony.
Verina Astra’s appeal is in the way it holds those scales together. The rooms and terraces make space for the sea and sky. The kitchen gives the evening something rooted and specific. A garden, a well-chosen dish and an unhurried table give this vast view a welcoming human scale.
Cap d’Antibes, France
Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc
A famous place still makes room to disappear
Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc began with the idea of a retreat for creative people. The hotel’s timeline connects the project to Hippolyte de Villemessant, the founder of Le Figaro, and records its opening in 1870. Its later fame has become immense, yet the physical arrangement still makes room for the original desire to withdraw.
The long Grande Allée gives the property a ceremonial axis. The sea draws people toward the Eden-Roc Pavilion and the pool cut into the coastal setting. Along the rocks, the cabanas create a much smaller scale of occupation: a private place for a few people within an extraordinarily public legend.
The pool dates to the early twentieth century, and cabanas followed in the 1920s. These additions helped define how guests used the coast. They gave different forms to leisure, from the shared spectacle around the water to the intimacy of a small shelter facing the sea.
The range of spaces helps explain the hotel’s appeal across generations. Fame can make a hotel seem as though it belongs entirely to the people watching it. A thoughtful plan returns some ownership of the day to the person actually staying there. You can take part in the scene, then find a quieter edge of it.
The Oetker family acquired the hotel in 1969, becoming part of its long continuity of care. The enduring achievement is that such a recognizable place still offers smaller experiences within the larger image. A writer’s retreat and a Riviera gathering place are both present in the landscape. Guests can decide, from one part of the day to another, how much company they want.
Northern landscapes
The countryside comes indoors
Meadow flowers, colored glass and a Baltic walk. Four places with a close relationship to the world outside.
Surrey, England
Beaverbrook
Art that changes the room around you
Brian Clarke’s work at Beaverbrook brings flowers into glass and ceramic. Cornflowers and poppies appear through the spaces of the Coach House spa, where color meets daylight, water and the changing position of the visitor. The artist’s project record makes clear how thoroughly the work belongs to the architecture.
This is an unusually generous way to commission art for a hotel. A guest does not have to pause in a gallery posture to encounter it. The work participates in the room they are already using. Light can make it feel different across the day, and the floral subject has an immediate relationship with the estate outside.
The house was once the home of Lord Beaverbrook, the newspaper proprietor. Its current art collection, curated by Sir Frank Lowe, draws on a wider set of personalities and media. Film director Alan Parker made collages for the corridors outside named guest rooms. A Jean Cocteau work sits above an entrance to the Italian Garden. These choices give the house wit and curiosity alongside its historical associations.
The Clarke commission gives contemporary creative work an unusually substantial role in how the place feels. Historic houses already possess strong personalities. Introducing art at this scale requires confidence that a new contribution can deepen the building’s life.
Beaverbrook lets a country-house stay include that kind of discovery. A corridor becomes an occasion to stop over a collage; a pool becomes a setting in which stained glass can be encountered at leisure. The art is given a life beyond the explanatory label, and the guest is given several different ways to enjoy the house.
Ascot, Berkshire, England
Coworth Park
The meadow comes indoors
For Coworth Park’s new stable suites and cottages, Martin Hulbert Design brought dried meadow flowers into resin tabletops. The detail appears in the June 2026 announcement alongside hand-drawn, block-printed Irish linen and equestrian references in leather. The landscape and the estate’s working associations became material for the rooms.
Hulbert had helped shape the hotel at its 2010 opening. Returning to the project allowed the newer work to grow from a long familiarity with the place. The cottages also gained planting intended to bring seasonal interest close to their terraces, extending the design beyond the interior boundary.
Coworth’s grounds include a substantial wildflower meadow. A guest may encounter it first at full scale, through a walk or a view, then notice its flowers preserved in a table. That small change of scale is an intelligent piece of design. It gives the room a memory of the landscape without filling it with explanatory text.
The estate’s equestrian life works similarly. Stable buildings and references to saddlery have a relationship with the place’s actual uses. The materials do more than signal a general idea of country living; they draw from what is here.
The connections are available to any curious guest. People rarely arrive with an architect’s dossier in their luggage. They understand a hotel through what they touch, where they walk and the things that catch their attention. Coworth’s newer rooms give those experiences continuity. The outdoor world remains present after the walk is over, at the scale of a flower held inside a tabletop.
Schleswig-Holstein, Germany
Weissenhaus Private Nature Luxury Resort
A northern estate asks you to take the long way
Weissenhaus spreads across a Baltic estate, with a château, historic buildings, gardens and a long natural beach. Moving between its spaces is part of the attraction. The setting makes a walk feel like a reasonable thing to do with an unclaimed hour.
Owner Jan Henric Buettner’s project gives this stretch of Schleswig-Holstein a distinctive form of hospitality. The estate’s 2025 announcement describes 75 hectares, three kilometers of beach, the protected Kavaliershaus, a wine space in the château’s vaults and the Bootshaus restaurant beside the water. These places carry different relationships with the estate. A meal near the shore and time in a historic vaulted room need not feel like variations of the same experience.
The same announcement brought Martin Elsner back to northern Germany as the resort’s managing director. His hospitality career had begun in Hamburg before taking him through other European countries. That return feels apt for a property whose character depends so strongly on its northern setting. Experience acquired elsewhere can be brought home without making the destination feel interchangeable.
Weissenhaus is reserved for resort guests, so its village-like arrangement should be understood as the plan of a private estate. Within that setting, the dispersal of buildings offers something valuable: space between the programmed parts of a stay. The route from one place to another becomes time spent outside.
Distance contributes to comfort here. A hotel can make everything immediately available, or it can give some pleasures an approach. Here, the grounds and shoreline supply that approach. The guest is invited to experience the scale of the Baltic landscape on foot, with another part of the estate waiting at the end of the walk.
Gstaad, Switzerland
The Alpina Gstaad
Familiar materials, surprising company
For The Alpina Gstaad, artist Ann Carrington made sculptural animal horns from antique bone and horn cutlery. The hotel’s 2015 account of its art collection describes the commissions alongside contemporary works in its public spaces. It is a pleasingly inventive response to an Alpine setting: an emblem people recognize, made through a process that gives them something new to discover.
The same account explains how HBA’s interiors drew on regional crafts. Scissor-cut patterns informed decorative elements. Glass pendants recalled cowbells. Quartz became part of lamps and other objects, while weathered timber brought the material life of older farmhouses into the building. The project began with close attention to a place and allowed its designers to make fresh things from what they found.
The hotel opened in 2012, so its connection with tradition was a deliberate creative choice rather than an inheritance of centuries-old hotel rooms. That makes the choices especially worth examining. A newer building can contribute to a regional visual language when its makers understand more than the most recognizable silhouette.
Carrington’s contribution also has a welcome sense of humor. It rewards the person who looks a little longer. The object first reads as one thing, then reveals the knives and forks that made it possible. A dining room gains a small occasion for conversation, and a familiar mountain symbol acquires an unexpected human history of use.
The Alpina’s current hotel information places it in Gstaad’s seasonal rhythm. Its enduring design interest lies in this combination of familiarity and discovery. Local references make the setting understandable; the artists and craftspeople keep it curious.
Someone has to keep caring.
The most moving thing about a long-lived hotel is the number of people who have had to do good work for it to remain loved. Some leave their names in the history. Others leave a restored path, a piece of stained glass, a better welcome.
That work gives these places a future. A chef can find room for her own memories in a legendary kitchen. A family can receive an old house and make it hospitable to strangers. The inheritance becomes richer because another person has contributed.
Those are the stories I enjoy thinking about and writing. They reveal how a business acquires a character people can feel.
If you see something of your own work in these stories, I would enjoy a conversation about writing or consulting. You can also read more about my work.
A few useful distinctions
Before you go
Are these 28 hotels ranked?
No. They are grouped into four chapters by setting and story. The essay considers the people, craft and decisions that give each hotel its character, rather than assigning scores or a booking order.
Where are the two Venice hotels in this essay?
The Venice Venice Hotel is in Ca’ da Mosto on the Grand Canal near Rialto. Hotel Cipriani is on Giudecca, across the water from central Venice. Their settings offer different relationships with the city.
Was Forestis a working sanatorium before it became a hotel?
No. A tuberculosis sanatorium was planned at the site in 1912, but war prevented the project from being realized as intended. A hotel opened there in 2009, and Forestis began its next chapter in 2020.
Is Akelarre on the Mediterranean?
No. Akelarre is on Mount Igeldo near San Sebastián, overlooking the Bay of Biscay on Spain’s northern Atlantic coast.
Are all of these hotels open throughout the year?
No. Some operate seasonally, and opening dates can change. Confirm current dates, access, room categories and restaurant arrangements with the property before planning a stay.
