PSARA · NEW YORK · DELAND
Santorini Greek Cuisine: The Island Manny Brought to DeLand
The name above the door is Santorini. The island at the beginning of Manny Politis’s own story is Psara.
I like that distinction because it takes us past the familiar image of a Greek restaurant and toward an actual person. Before there was a table in downtown DeLand, there was a boy growing up in an Aegean fishing community. The distance between those two places is part of what gives Santorini its depth.
Sixteen is young to begin again
In Santorini’s account of its owners, Manny came to the United States at sixteen. New York restaurants became part of his working life. His mother’s recipes remained part of the food he would eventually bring to DeLand.
We often compress a life like that into a phrase such as family recipes. It is worth giving the phrase a little more room. A person leaves one country, learns to live in another, and keeps knowledge that began before the move.
A recipe is unusually well suited to that kind of journey. It can travel through memory and practice. It gives somebody a way to make an earlier place present again, even when the surroundings have changed completely.
His mother’s cooking gives the restaurant a human origin. The knowledge came from a relationship before it became part of a business, and that earlier connection remains inside the work.
Somebody’s family table became part of what another town could experience. That journey gives a personal dimension to the welcome around a Greek taverna’s shared table.
Agata has a beginning of her own
Manny’s island is only one part of the story. Agata Politis comes from a small Slovak village. Santorini brings their two backgrounds together in a shared undertaking, with Manny in the kitchen and Agata working with the people welcoming guests.
I find that partnership more interesting than a simple label could convey. A restaurant associated with one cuisine can hold several personal histories. The identity of the food is clear, while the people building the place bring their own experiences of home and belonging.
There is a particular intimacy to working on a business whose result other people experience as an evening. The owners carry the responsibilities. The guest gets the table, the company, and the chance to settle in.
Manny and Agata’s different beginnings are part of what makes this particular restaurant theirs. DeLand gained the place they built together, with all the experience that came before it.
A family tradition gets a public life
Once a family recipe enters a restaurant, it begins meeting people who have no part in the original memory. That is one of the most generous things food can do. It lets someone participate without asking them to share the whole background.
At Santorini, a person familiar with Greek cooking can bring recognition to the meal. Somebody encountering it for the first time can bring curiosity. Both have a way into a tradition that existed before they arrived.
Over time, the restaurant develops another layer of memory. People attach their own occasions to it. A meal shared in DeLand becomes part of a life that may have no connection to Psara or New York beyond this one introduction.
That is how a place can be rooted elsewhere and become thoroughly local. The roots remain meaningful. New relationships grow around them.
What I appreciate is the continuity inside that movement. A mother’s knowledge travels with her son. His work makes it available to other people. The story gets longer.
DeLand’s table becomes a little wider
When I think about what Santorini adds downtown, I think about that journey. Manny and Agata built a place where their lives and other people’s evenings can meet. The result has a character that belongs to them.
DeLand benefits from having these individual histories close together. Parva’s Colombian story begins somewhere else and arrives through a different family. Each gives the town a way to encounter a larger world through people who have made a home here.
Santorini’s sign may first suggest a well-known island. Look a little closer, and there is Psara, a sixteen-year-old beginning again, a mother’s recipes, a Slovak village, and a partnership.
That is a lot of life to bring to a table. It is why this restaurant deserves a story of its own.
Questions about this place
What connects Santorini Greek Cuisine with Manny’s early life?
Manny came to the United States at sixteen and worked in New York restaurants. His mother’s recipes remained part of the knowledge he eventually brought to DeLand.
What does Santorini contribute beyond a dining occasion?
It gives a personal and cultural history a local setting. The article explores how a proprietor’s roots can become part of the experience a town shares.
